What started with an email became a full-on visual anthropological/ethnographical expedition of Indigenous and Afro-Caribbean art in the Caribbean, precisely in the Lesser Antilles islands. This expedition became my fieldwork, intended to satisfy my thesis project for my MA degree. The islands I explored during this study were Point a Pitre and Marie Galante in Guadeloupe and Dominica, south of both islands mentioned. The latter island is independent of its colonial edifice, while the former is still a French Department. My contact was Dave Perdew, cap’n of the Labora and chief director of the Labora Caribbean Art Expedition. The ship Labora is a seventy foot, 60ton ketch built in the thirties for fishing purposes in Denmark. Dave purchased the vessel in 2018 and decided to refit her into a sailing vessel, and for the last seven years, he has been doing just that. The Labora Expedition is part of a sailing conglomerate dedicated to preserving Indigenous and Afro-Caribbean art in the Caribbean. Dave, a visual anthropologist, has organized this expedition for over two years. The expedition involves sail training, sailing chores, and tasks, participating in various projects related to ecology and oceanography, participant observation of local events and festivals, and ethical building of rapport with the locals of whichever island the Labora visits, along with the process of documentation, whether visual or physical logs. During the expedition, the sailors also learned how to operate the vessel safely (handling lines and rigging, passage making, sail configuration, and navigation rules). Critical maintenance was another learning experience, as well as electrical skills, crew dynamics, and even plumbing. The expedition is ongoing, and any person or student interested in joining the expedition is welcome. Now, they are moored or anchored off the city of Pointe a Pitre on Guadeloupe Island.
Among my exploits of the three islands mentioned, I found that the Creole culture had an honest knack for art that expressed their feelings and told the stories of their ancestors. As subjective as art is or can be, the meaning of its design will always be in the artist’s making and their intentions in creating the art. We can attempt to interpret its meaning, albeit they are only theories of interpretation. The People of Marie Galante were lively, affable, super genuine, and eager to know where you came from. They are open to sharing stories and inviting you to their social circles. Marie Galante, one of the smaller Gwada (Guadeloupe) islands, was a mixture of Afro-Caribbean descendants, Creole and French occupants. A ferry from Pointe a Pitre lands in Marie Galante and departs twice a day, and a good percentage of its boarders are tourists. However, most of them are from other islands in the Lesser Antilles. Families, friends, and partners separated by close waters. All the islands in these seas hold festivals every weekend.
These festivals (Gwoka festival) introduce a colorful barrage of stories that display the history of Creolization, the African diaspora today, and their ancestors who arrived on the islands by force during the TransAtlantic Slave Expansion. One of the instruments used, the heart of the music festivals, is the Ka (big drum). While the average person will enjoy the beats and tempos of the drums during the festival, which are spiky, moving, tribal, aggressive, and mind warps you to dance, the beats have intentional meaning behind every stroke, hit, and measure in their notes.
These drums commanded and led the entire festival, moving throughout the streets. The intentional energy experienced while observing the festival move throughout the streets is an explosion of a powerful resistance intended to challenge the colonial occupation and slavery during the Age of Enlightenment. A statement that the children have not forgotten the past and placing agency is merited; the past is much alive and lives within them daily.
My good friend and cinematographer/videographer, Dustin Wagner, a graduate archaeology student at Leicester University and a numismatist, lived on the Labora and experienced the sailor’s life in the Caribbean. It was extreme, physically and mentally demanding, but greatly rewarding. We were the only Americans, along with Dave; the crew members came from various countries: Finland, England, Sweden, Cuba, Austria, Germany, France, and Guadeloupe; later, another American joined, all with diverse ethnicities and backgrounds. We all learned sailing and received a crash educational course on the cultural history of these islands. Our mission, I and Dustin, was to capture as much footage as we could for my deliverable, a short documentary about the importance of preserving Afro-Caribbean and Indigenous art in the Caribbean, that will hopefully be exhibited in the Memorial Acte Museum in Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe, once released.
The expedition also included day trips the crew partook in, where, as a joint team, we stepped away from our daily chores as sailors and ventured to whichever island we anchored at. In Marie Galante, we rented two vehicles and spent the day visiting historical sites, sandy beaches with light azure waters, and rum distilleries that viewed screenings of their history. We were building rapport with the locals while enjoying the restaurants and food life of the island. By the end of our stay in Marie Galante, I was surprised that the locals started recognizing us as the Labora crew.
Building teaching and research experience overseas is a different ball game than locally in California. As a student anthropologist, realizing that malleability and openness to the project were essential traits, which was an unexpected turn. Being flexible became second nature just days into the expedition; understanding the discourse and dialogue within the ship itself was the first lofty duty each sailor had to partake in. The same thing happened on shore; the locals presented a collection of discourses, and being part of that discourse without any form of discrimination was a blessing. These learning curves I experienced can only come from traveling and exploring other cultures and heritages outside of the pockets of your town and city. Boots on the ground and hands-on experiences are where you will find the viewpoint of the natives and receive the grounded stories of the past.










